|
of The Flute by Kim J. Teal  Copyright 1991 by KimJ. Teal May not be reproduced in any form without prior consent. All rights reserved. |
|
of The Flute by Kim J. Teal Copyright 1991 by KimJ. Teal May not be reproduced in any form without prior consent. All rights reserved. |
| 1. HEADJOINT CORK |
| The flute's headjoint cork must be set at 17 millimeters (piccolo = 7.5 mm.) from the center of the blowhole. This marking is found on the manufacturer's swab rod that came with the flute. If the cork comes out of position it must be corrected or the octaves will be out of tune. NEVER remove the cork from the top end of the headjoint as it is parabolic (tapered) in design and to do so could seriously damage the headjoint. You might consider an O-Ring, which contains no cork and thus doesn't expand or contract unevenly due to humidity and temperature changes. |
| 2. SWABBING |
| The
flute must always be swabbed out every time you are
done playing it, going in the direction the air flows through the
instrument
for the body and foot joint. A clean cotton, man's handkerchief (NOT A BANDANA)
works best as it is absorbent, has finished edges, and is the correct
size.
When swabbing the flute out, wrap the swab around the rod so as not to
scratch
the inside of the instrument. A wooden swab rod is better than metal
for this
reason, but always keep the manufacturer's rod too, as it has the
correct
marking on it for that particular flute. Also when swabbing, make sure
you
don't hold the lip plate, since it's only soldered on and a pinpoint
leak may
occur. At the same time, press down on the cork's crown assembly screw
so that
you don't accidentally push the cork out of position. After swabbing,
gently
wipe off all fingerprints. Don't handle your flute by the mechanism
while doing
this!!! Don't use a PADSAVER as a swab
and store it inside the flute. It creates humidity, which is bad for
your
flute. |
| 3. DO's and DON'T's |
|
Do use a clean,
soft brush such as a large make-up or artist's paintbrush, to dust off
the mechanism on occasion.
Do use ungummed cigarette paper or
"permanent"
(as in hair perm) end paper to gently clean sticky pads by closing the
key with
the paper in between the pad and key cup and then gently pulling out
the paper.
If you press the key shut too tightly you run the risk of tearing the
pad's
skin covering which will cause it to leak. DON'T use other
types of paper, especially dollar bills, as they are too thick and
course, can
be dirty, and in the case of the dollar bill, the dye will come off as
well.
Don't overdo cleaning the pads as it can also cause pad wear over time.
Placing
a dry PAD SAVER in the body and foot can help keep the pads dry and
stop
sticking.
Always oil your flute every year (depending on
the amount of
playing you do) with a good quality clock/watch or gun oil. I prefer
French
clock oil (ordered through a jewelry store.) Use only a tiny drop on a
pin.
Using too much oil is as bad as not using enough. Avoid using woodwind
key oil
as its more course and causes wear on the mechanism.
Don't use
silver polish or treated polishing cloths on
your flute as it can destroy the pads and get in the mechanism. A cloth
dampened with water will shine up your flute nicely.
A silk-weave cloth also works nicely for
polishing.
Don't put
anything in the case except the flute and swab
rod since there isn't enough room for anything else. Pencils can gouge
the
finish of your instrument and swab cloths can put stress on the
mechanism and
springs when the case is closed, not to mention causing warped pads and
corrosion due to moisture. Get a case cover, instead. It can be less
expensive
than having to get your flute repaired.
Don't handle
the mechanism or lip plate of
your flute when
assembling it (or at any other time!). When you assemble your flute,
handle it
by the tenon socket on the upper body, the bottom of the headjoint and
the
bottom of the foot joint, using a gentle twisting motion. Try not to
use cork
grease on tight-fitting joints as it attracts dust, which can wear down
the
tenon in time, causing too loose a fit (and a leak). Instead, take it
to a
reputable repairman and have it fitted properly. Check to make sure you can
assemble and disassemble the flute easily
before leaving the repair shop!
Do avoid extremes in both temperature
and humidity at all
times, particularly with wooden instruments, as extremes in either one
can
cause serious damage to pads, corks and the mechanism. Wooden
instruments can
crack, which can be a very serious repair, and piccolo pads frequently
fall out
in cold temperatures (re-padding a piccolo is a very difficult job --
much more
so than a flute). Case covers with insulation are highly recommended
for
protecting instruments in colder climates. Oiling the bore of wooden
instruments
to protect from cracking is a controversial subject.
Some swear by it, while others think it may
lead to cracking. I personally have oiled my piccolo's bore (a Haynes)
in
winter for many years and find that it plays better with it. While I
have used
woodwind bore oil, extra light virgin olive oil (natural as opposed to
synthetic) is also recommended by some players. Just add a couple of
drops of
oil to a swab cloth (don't saturate it) and swab through the instrument
to
provide a very light coating to the bore. If you oil the bore, don't
over-do
the amount of oil and don't get it on the pads or clog the tone holes!
Don't get
your flute wet by sticking it in the bathtub
like brass players do to clean their instruments. Have it cleaned by a
repairman, since it must be fully disassembled in order to clean it.
Don't attempt
to do your own repairs or fix loose screws. ALWAYS have a competent
repairman
do the work.
Do take good care of your instrument and it "will take good care of you" when you're performing. |
|
Email me at: kjt at glis.net (in your email program insert the @ sign where it says "at", without spaces, and put "Flute Quest" in the subject line) |
